No collection from Patek Philippe may hold quite as much significance as the Calatrava and specifically here, the 6196P. After all, it was the first major project from the Stern family after acquiring the brand back in 1932.
They sought to help usher the brand (and incidentally the entire industry) away from the often highly-complex pocket watches, and into the era of the wristwatch – which many manufacturers deemed as merely a phase that would soon die out. The outcome was the Reference 96 – the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch. Unbeknownst to them at the time, they had just created what many deem to be the blueprint for all classic, elegant, round-cased wristwatches to come from any watchmaker.
The case and dial design borrowed inspiration from the German Bauhaus design philosophy – offering a clean, legible dial which was free of almost all unnecessary aesthetic embellishments. The case presented elegant proportions and shaping, with sheer case sides and distinct lugs that flowed directly from the case middle.
The simplicity and timelessness of this design led to it having one of the longest production runs of any Patek reference, over 4 decades in the catalogue, with a few minor tweaks and dial variations over that time period.
Fast forward to Watches & Wonders 2025, and we saw the latest and greatest watch to feature the ‘96’ reference; the platinum-cased 6196P.
Keeping the key aspects of what made the original watch so popular, Patek have breathed new life into the classic with the striking choice of the rose-gilt opaline dial, contrasting against the blackened white gold “obus”-style hour markers.
Inside is the immaculately decorated and perfectly proportioned in-house calibre 30-255 PS. It features a stop-seconds function, twin mainspring barrel assembly (capable of holding up to 65-hours of stable power-reserve). While the large bridges serve as the ideal canvas for the brand to showcase its renowned hand-finishing, in line with the many criteria set by the Patek Philippe Seal.
Like many truly complex dial colours, the rose-gilt opaline dial really does need to be seen in person to be able to appreciate its depth - the slight tint of the rose colouring is extremely difficult to capture in photographs. Longstanding Patek collectors will recognise the significance of the ‘Salmon’ dial seen here, historically reserved for low-production or outright unique pieces.
In summary, what we have here is a watch that could be both something that your grandad could pass down to you, or an heirloom fit for the most fortunate of future generations.
This really does offer everything a connoisseur would hope for from a simple, hand-wound Patek Philippe.
Jamie Thompson
Jamie Thompson is based at Berry’s Jewellers, No. 60 Stonegate, York, and has developed a deep understanding of Patek Philippe timepieces through years of experience in the industry. With a strong passion for horology and attention to detail, Jamie shares valuable insight into the heritage, craftsmanship, and enduring significance of the Patek Philippe name.
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