Do you own more than one watch equipped with an automatic, mechanical movement? Or maybe you don't wear your automatic watch every day? Whatever the reason, the result ends up being the same. The movement runs out of power and the watch needs to be rewound and re-set again every time you want to wear it. Unless you've invested in a good quality watch winder, that is. If you don't know what a watch winder is, or how one works, don't fret. We've put together a somewhat detailed explanation below. We've also included recommendations for three different winders from WOLF 1834. This family-led company has been making watch and jewellery boxes for over 184 years and are highly regarded the world over.
Powering Your Watch
As the name suggests, a self-winding watch is able to maintain its own energy supply. It does this by converting the inertia from the sporadic movements of your wrist into energy. The rotor winds the mainspring, which then unwinds over a set period of time (usually 36 - 42 hours). If the watch is worn on a daily basis, this design will ensure it always has enough energy. If not, the mainspring will unwind and will need to be wound again. All mechanical movements come with some degree of power reserve. Think of this as a ‘grace period’. If you don't wear your watch for a day, you can still put it back on the next day without having to set the time again. Most power reserves are around 2 days (approximately 40 hours). There are watches that boast 3/ 5/ 7 or even 8-day power reserves but they are the exception. So, generally speaking, if you haven’t worn your automatic watch in two days, the movement will stop. If you own several watches, this can become an annoyance. That’s where a watch winder comes into play. Watch movements are complex and delicate though, so choosing the right winder is important.
Choosing A Watch Winder
Before you choose any old watch winder, there are a few things to consider. First, a winder is not a perfect replication of your sporadic wrist movements. When worn, a watch movement relies on inertia to generate power. A winder, meanwhile, uses gravity to keep the rotor hanging in the down position. The watch is then rotated around it. This design means that when winder is turning, the mainspring is being wound. It's not able to unwind though, which is important to keep in mind. Without any way to regulate the winding this will likely lead to damaging the wristwatch. Second, oscillating weights (the rotor) don't all work in the same way. Some only wind the mainspring when they turn in the clockwise direction. Others do it anticlockwise. Nowadays though, most new movements have bi-directional winding. If you're not sure about your watch, ask one of our qualified staff for advice. Likewise, each watch has an optimum number of revolutions to wind the mainspring. These are referred to as turns per day (TPD). For example, many Swiss made ETA movements need 900 TPD bidirectional (= 1,800 turns in total). This information is available from the manufacturer. Again, please check with our staff for advice. Last but not least, you need to think about the impact of bringing a winder into the home. Watch winders also double as storage cabinets, so you want something that will look nice on display. It also needs to be quiet - having one or more noisy winders switch on during the night is less than desirable. That’s why we recommend WOLF 1834 watch winders.
WOLF 1834 Watch Winders
WOLF is a fifth-generation, family run box making company. The company has been manufacturing watch winders for the last quarter of a century. WOLF 1834 watch winders are developed in consultation with Swiss watch manufactures. This results in winders optimised for how an automatic wristwatch works. The WOLF 1834 watch winder runs on a 24-hour cycle to replicate daily wearing. The winder is in action for a six-hour period, with periodic pauses followed by 18 hours of inactivity. If your watch requires higher TPD, then there will be more activity in those first six hours. During the inactive period, the mainspring can unwind. This prevents over winding and the risk of damage to the delicate movement. WOLF 1834 watch winders also excel in the areas of storage/display and silent winding. This is thanks to the company's 180 plus years of hand-making presentation boxes. The high-level craftsmanship has made them a leader in the industry. Their winders feature a patented “lock-in” cuff (designed to fit up to 52mm cases). This collapsible cuff makes getting your wristwatch on and off the winder easy. A secure fastening prevents falls and allows the watch to be mounted vertically. All models feature universal multi-pin adaptors and the option to power by batteries. Now you know how watch winders work and what to look for. The next step is to buy one. We’ve put together three of our favourites below to get you started, all of which are available online from Berry’s now.
Exotic Single Winder in Black Python-Embossed Leather and Chrome
The Exotic Single Winder is a programmable winder (with backlit LCD display) that can handle multiple wristwatch needs. Access to the winder is through a chrome-plated glass door and lining is in black nubuck leather, while the module itself is meticulously hand-crafted from black python-embossed top grain leather. TPD: 300- 1,200/ double the amount by selecting bi-directional (increases/ decreases in increments of 50) Directional Settings: Clockwise, Counter Clockwise and Bi-directional In addition to the standard WOLF 1834 features, the Exotic Single Winder includes a start delay function (that can be set from 6 to 72 hours) to allow remaining power reserves to run down before beginning to wind.
View the Wolf 1834 Exotic Black Python-Embossed Leather Single Watch Winder.
Windsor Single Winder with Cover in Brown Leather and Orange Silk
The Windsor Single Winder is a mid-century inspired winder in brown pebble leather with chrome finished hardware. It features a glass cover, behind which the faceplate stands out in orange textured silk. TPD: 900/ double the amount by selecting bi-directional Directional Settings: Clockwise, Counter Clockwise and Bi-directional.
Navigator Cub Winder in USA flag (Limited Edition)
Cub winders are special in that they’re designed for modular use - they allow you to start small and add more winders as your collection grows. The Navigator Cub Winder in USA flag is just one of many finishes in the collection giving you the choice to be as colourful or monochromatic as you like. TPD: 900 bi-directional (= 1,800 total) Directional Settings: Bi-directional.
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